Outdoor Trails: Paddle in solitude on Pa.'s first river trail
AD CRABLE
Lancaster New Era
http://www.lancnews.com
06/26/98
(Copyright 1998 Lancaster Newspapers)

ENOLA - Only minutes earlier we paddled under the massive Interstate 81 bridge, a modern-day temple to our need to get somewhere fast.

Even far below on the surface of the Susquehanna, our canoe and bodies shake from the rumble of 18-wheelers in a hurry to get somewhere else.

But now, with the span to our backs, we suddenly find ourselves in a tropical paradise.

As we glide by an island in silent awe, sheet-white and gangly great egrets and squat black-crowned night herons fly over our heads and crowd into trees.

Some sit on stick nests. Others perch several deep on bowed tree branches. Raucous squawks and screeches drown out all else.

No one knows why these uncommon wading birds choose this tiny island year after year, and not any of the dozens of other similar islands in the vicinity.

Wade Island Rookery, Pennsylvania's largest multi-species nesting island, is just one of the diverse and often unexpected delights you'll encounter on the just-opened Susquehanna River Trail.

A trail on water? Exactly.

Pennsylvania's first water trail - including primitive overnight camping on undeveloped islands - is a 24-mile journey down the Susquehanna from just above Halifax to City Island in Harrisburg.

There is no marked trail. Paddle downstream any way you want, although a trail map suggests routes at the two whitewater spots at the Dauphin Narrows and Fort Hunter.

Dubbed "An Island Adventure," the Susquehanna River Trail is an effort to introduce people to the special natural area and surprising solitude available in their backyards.

Visitors making the easy paddle down the river will experience the world's longest stone-arch railroad bridge, three water gaps, some moderate whitewater, the 25-foot Statue of Liberty replica on an old bridge abutment, and old river homes where occupants will likely wave as you glide by.

But by far, the biggest treasure - and surprise - is the wilderness feel and wildlife viewing afforded by the playground of islands that dot the stretch.

There are more than 200 islands to explore. Some are little more than grassy outcrops or mats of water willow that strain the current into little rivulets that are fun to paddle through.

Some have hunkered growths of black willow. Many are more sizable strips with stands of river birch and silver maple.

Sheets Island, a state natural area, has a bottomland hardwood forest and the remains of an old farm. Haldeman Island is a 990-acre game lands managed for waterfowl.

Almost all were used by Indians.

Most are publicly owned. Many can be used for day use or overnight camping. Volunteers have cleared small camping areas on 10 islands. They are marked by number on wood duck nesting boxes attached to trees.

Beware, many of the islands are carpeted by poison ivy.

The river is hemmed by major highways on both shores. The Harrisburg skyline is visible from much of the trail's lower reaches. Yet paddle between the islands with their lush growth and overhanging trees and you envision yourself in Minnesota's wilderness Boundary Waters Canoe Area.

"A lot of people who live in Harrisburg don't realize all those islands and neat passages are out there because you can't see it," says Brook Lenker, who spearheaded the river trail project.

"The islands overlap each other," says Lenker, watersheds project coordinator for the Harrisburg office of the Alliance for the Chesapeake Bay. "There's a mirage of being just one shoreline and you don't realize there's this cluster of islands."

You will see a Golden Arch on your journey down the river trail, and hear fire sirens. But those reminders of civilization make the wildness of the river and its island clusters all the more precious.

Be sure to take time to play in the multitude of currents: eddies and calm water that pool behind boulders and island tips, and even flows that reverse direction.

We camp on a small unnamed island in the Sheets Island Archipelago north of Harrisburg that trail organizers have dubbed "toad island" because of all the amphibians jumping around.

Lighting along Front Street keeps our island from total darkness. But we are serenaded by some kind of lovesick frogs whose trilling is punctuated by the throaty outbursts of bull frogs.

We sleep on the open ground and are pleasantly surprised not to be harassed by biting insects. "I've been amazed that bugs aren't bad on the river," says Lenker. "I think it's the moving water."

"Leave-no-trace" guidelines are in place for all the islands. There are no restroom facilities. Carry out all human waste; do not bury it.

Occasionally on our journey, we are startled by the big gulp of fish inhaling insects from the surface or chasing minnows right out of the water.

Fishing for smallmouth bass is excellent throughout the river trail.

Other wildlife abounds. Canada geese and ducks are everywhere - at this time of year so are their fuzzy young that the parents parade out in formation.

Sightings of eagles and ospreys are quite possible. Deer inhabit some of the larger islands. Lenker has heard of bass jumping into people's canoes.

There are 11 designated access points on both sides of the river. Note that if you embark from the Fish and Boat Commission launches at Halifax, Amity Hall or Fort Hunter, canoes are supposed to have a valid boat registration.

The water trail is managed by the Alliance for the Chesapeake Bay, state Game and Fish and Boat Commissions, state Department of Conservation and Natural Resources, and the City of Harrisburg.

A consortium of families, canoe clubs, scouting groups, even a school for troubled youths from Boiling Springs, have agreed to maintain and patrol the designated camping areas on islands.

But poison ivy and Japanese knotweed quickly reclaim the spots and will take constant vigilance. Some signs will not be up until August, according to Lenker.

He hopes the water trail will get more residents of this region to discover and bond with the Susquehanna, the mother river of the Chesapeake Bay.

"One of our goals is to connect communities to their watersheds. We saw that if we could get people out on the water and build a bond with resources, they are more likely to get involved with conservation and to volunteer.

"We see this as a grassroots project to be maintained by the people, for the people."

River trail guide

A detailed map and guide to the Susquehanna River Trail is available by calling the Alliance for the Chesapeake Bay at 236-8825.

The guide describes natural and man-made features, shows launch sites, locations of islands suitable for camping, outfitters and campgrounds. A $2 donation is requested for the guide.

Volunteers also are needed to maintain the river trail.